Using Nissan Leaf accelerator in you EV project

Lots of nissan leaf's about so its an easily avilable parts to get hold of.
The pedal assembly is rather large and bulky with its design for nissan leaf
And comes with the brake attached
 

The accelerator sensor can be remove and not so large then to work with.

Can then fabricate a new holder for it to suite your project
Some plates that may help: https://activeautomation.co.nz/nissan-leaf-acc-mount-plates

The wiring for the sensor has two output,
A 0-5v range and 0-12v range
So can use either or both in your project,
this is the wiring information on the nissan leaf accelerator sensor:

Using Curtis PB-8 throttle sensor on a conversion

Curtis PB-8, is a good option also
If you dont want to change the accelerator pedals (or for a boat)
Then this style can be used and operated by a cable

• 3-wire throttle sensor (Potbox) 
  (which can also be used with 2 wires)
  
  
• Its a 0-5k Resistor

This is the wiring information on PB-8 three wire sensor:

Leaf spy is a excellent tool and a must for anyone using Nissan Leaf for their batteries or has one to drive.
Its a Phone application that lets your check the battery state of you nissan

Android version: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Turbo3.Leaf_Spy_Pro
Iphone version: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/leafspy-pro/id967376861

Is a version of Leaf Spy that is free, so you can try before you buy it
But at about $20 its cheap and well worth the money and to support the designers.

I have only used the andoid version so cant comment if same info displayed for iPhone

From the app you can get the following:

SOH: State of health
  Very important info to know,
  Its how good your battery is.
  While it may be a 24kw battery if SOH is 50% you only can store 12kw of energy

SOC: State of charge
  Its like a fuel guage indicator of how much you charged the battery

kWh : Size of battery stoarge
  Leaf started with 24kw, now have some 30,40 and 60kw options
  The more kWh you have the longer longer range you will get
  And range will be effecte by what the SOH and SOC is.

Serial number of battery
 Dont think a lot of people steeling batteries but good thing to know

Then you have this sort of info:
Voltage reading of the pack - Combined value of all cells/module volatages in the pack
Voltage reading of each cell - The voltage levels for each cell/modules in the pack
Temp reading from the pack - Values from the 4 temp sensors in pack  (May be more or less I can see 4 in 24kw pack)

Best of all leaf spy pro has ability to connect direct to a battery out side of the car
So means if buying a battery of a someone you can still check if as good as they said it is.

How to keep usage of leaf spy in your own conversion project

If you add a the ODB2 port in to your project and its wired to the Can lines on battery
Then you can still read the battery info like you do when in a Nissan Leaf car

To do this you will need change setting
Change the year of the car on leaf spy
To be BMS 

Which means can connect direct to Leaf Battery from Leaf spy

You will need to check what battery you have as plug has diffrent version based based on Gen1/Gen2 etc
But this give idea how to wire up from port to plug

Example of it wired up and being used (Screen above from this setup)

The ODB2 port connect like this to hv battery and our VCM (ReinCARnated-VCM) will still work to scan battery for info

Important: Before starting make sure you work out how to do it safely.
You are working with a car that can have a 400volts DC in its wiring.
Removal of the 12v battery and HV fuse will help reduce the risk of power in HV wires
But still treat them as live till fully disconnected from battery

 

This blog is about removed of a motor from a Nissan leaf so can use in own project

Video of a removal: https://youtu.be/m1zmMvo2WB8

This is a conversion of a 200HP Mercury outbord to electric

We sources a 200HP Mercury Leg, that had blowen its power head

And luckly a 150hp and 200HP has same shape cowing so we had a lid for it also.

The out board will be tried out on our protype boat, will have twin motors and use one side petrol to be able to go out and trail range

At the moment when we try to do spin control we blow the fuse on, Guessing it could be issue with the inverter may not be as good as told from wrecker.

This one will be fun to drive, its a 1938 Morris 8 Sport, a 2 seater convertable. Its actual in rather good condition.

Starts and drives about and been stored in a farmers shed since 1986

The plan is to tidy up and get re-vined to be legal in NZ again

Then will remove the ICE engine and replace with EV engine.

First thing sort the brakes out so can stop as well as drive about

We checked all the brake lines and seemed good, was new hoses going to each wheel.
But checking the master cylinder, it was dry and the state of it was very bad.

Then explains the pedal not working at all, so removed the Master cyclinder and sent off to get over hauled.

And it came back looking like new, had leaks in the tin repaired and new linning on the boar.
Should get another 80 year out of this part.

Now have to bleed the brake lines again, and see if now can get a solid pedal.

Some body work to get the door to stay shut when driving with out the string holding it shut

The frame is woodern in these cars and the catch on the driver door will need some attention.

The door just wont stay shut when driving,

Indicator lights

Some one has put some strange indicator on to the bumpers, so not original.

Will just have to get the to work so can get the car legal again

Should of actual have trafficator that came out of the side, will see if can get some of them again

Wipers

Well it has a wipper motor and it works, but no wiper arm, luckly found one behind the dash and look rather good still.

 1949 Austin A40 Devon EV project

This was purchased with the engine and gear box removed. Which was good as we would of done that any way.   Have done a test fit and the EV motor will fitt in the space So engine mound will need to be fibracated We have also made a coupling to allow connection on to the leaf output shaft so connect on to a new longer drive shaft.   So it will have no gear box and drive the back diff directly.